Hot Springs, ARK. — Walk into the Arlington Hotel on a weekend nights, and you’ll witness some serious — and we mean serious — rug-cutting.

The house band is a group of aging hipsters dedicated to one play list and sometimes grants requests; the dance crowd is a funky mix of locals, with a smattering of bikers and their babes, tour groups and families thrown in to make things interesting.

Like the crowd at the Arlington, Hot Springs sports a diverse array of activities, from the ancient mineral springs to the natural beauty of the surrounding mountains and forests, to the vibrant and growing local arts scene.

Ah-a-ah, spa

The elaborate Fordyce Bathhouse, now the Hot Springs National Park’s visitor’s center, allows a glimpse into the treatments offered in the early 1900s. The therapy starts with a soak in a mineral water whirlpool. Following the bath, there’s the steam sauna, a hot towel wrap and a pressurized shower. The treatment ends with a 20-minute massage.

Today, treatments at the Buckstaff, as well as the Arlington and Majestic hotels, follow this exact routine, and cost about $60.

For those accustomed to the latest in spa technology — and luxury — the vintage bathhouses might just cause toes to curl. Let’s just say while perfectly sanitary, they’ve all seen better days. For those who crave that historic treatment, however, a vintage treatment at the Arlington or Buckstaff is the real deal; just remember to bring your flip flops.

Turtle Cove Spa, located at Mountain Harbor Resort just outside Hot Springs, will appeal to those more accustomed to modern spa-going. Many of the treatments at Turtle Cove use touches from native natural resources, including massages which use locally mined-quartz for a crystal energy balance, or stones from nearby Lake Ouachita which are heated for stone massage.

Natural wonders

* Hot Springs National Park is the country’s oldest national park — now 176 years old — as well as the smallest, at just 5,500 acres. The park is smack in the middle of downtown, with 26 miles of hiking trails that range from moderate walks to strenuous uphill climbs.

* Lake Hamilton is just outside downtown, and is a favorite spot for fishermen, especially those angling for striper. Pleasure cruises and waterfront restaurants allow for those who aren’t into water sports to take in the scenery, while on Lake Ouachita, houseboats, complete with slides, are available to rent for those who want to immerse themselves in the Natural State.

* Garvan Woodland Gardens, however, may hold the most natural charm in the whole area, with more than 160 types of azaleas, meandering paths and a Japanese garden.

* Tucked between the T-shirt shops downtown are dozens of galleries featuring the works of regional artists, but the most delightful of all art may just be found in the visitor’s center of Mountain Valley Spring Water, the locally-bottled water. As a nod to the local horse racing track, Oaklawn, the company commissioned a whimsical racehorse made primarily of recycled Mountain Valley glass bottles and other found objects. Other, smaller objects d’art crafted from the bottles, as well as the water itself, is available at the center.

If You Go: Hot Springs, Ark.

Hot Springs is about a three-hour drive from Memphis via I-40 West, to I-30 West and finally U.S. 70 West.

Where to stay:

Best to choose your accommodations by personality in Hot Springs:

For a romantic getaway, try Lookout Pointe Lakeside Inn on Lake Hamilton (www.lookoutpointinn.com or 866-525-6155), while outdoorsy types and families might enjoy Mountain Harbor Resort on Lake Ouachita (www.mountainharborresort.com or 870-867-2191).

Resources:

* Hot Springs Convention and Visitor’s Bureau: www.hotsprings.org or 800-772-2489.

* Hot Springs National Park: www.nps.gov/hosp or 501-620-6715.

* Buckstaff Bathhouse: www.buckstaffbaths.com or 501-623-2308.

* Garvan Woodland Gardens: http://www.garvangardens.org or 800-366-4664.