Dining spotlight: Bombay House beckons

Sag Paneer (fresh spinach cooked curry style with homemade cheese  and seasoned with aromatic herbs) is attractively served in a karahai lit with a candle that keeps the dish hot.

Photos by Nikki BoertmanThe Commercial Appeal

Sag Paneer (fresh spinach cooked curry style with homemade cheese and seasoned with aromatic herbs) is attractively served in a karahai lit with a candle that keeps the dish hot.

There's no food scent quite like the one that envelopes you when you enter an Indian restaurant. Not many odors get the old taste buds going like onions sautéing; add the multiple spices abundant in Indian cuisine and it's a sure-fire way to make you hungry.

Sag Paneer (fresh spinach cooked curry style with homemade cheese  and seasoned with aromatic herbs) is attractively served in a karahai lit with a candle that keeps the dish hot.

Photos by Nikki BoertmanThe Commercial Appeal

Sag Paneer (fresh spinach cooked curry style with homemade cheese and seasoned with aromatic herbs) is attractively served in a karahai lit with a candle that keeps the dish hot.

Murals adorn the walls at Bombay House, which has a buffet at lunch  and a dinner menu.

Murals adorn the walls at Bombay House, which has a buffet at lunch and a dinner menu.

Bombay House, in a shopping center at 1727 N. Germantown Parkway in Cordova, serves authentic Indian cuisine.

Bombay House, in a shopping center at 1727 N. Germantown Parkway in Cordova, serves authentic Indian cuisine.

Mixed Grill is a combination of tandoori chicken, chicken tikka, sheesh kabab, boti kabab and shrimp. Diners can request the level of spiciness they prefer.

Mixed Grill is a combination of tandoori chicken, chicken tikka, sheesh kabab, boti kabab and shrimp. Diners can request the level of spiciness they prefer.

Aloo Ghobi (cauliflower with potatoes)  is a favorite at Bombay House.

Aloo Ghobi (cauliflower with potatoes) is a favorite at Bombay House.

This week we visited Bombay House instead of the closer-to-home Indian restaurant we normally go to, and left both satisfied and stuffed.

The "assorted sn

ack" appetizer brings vegetable pakoras, a samosa, ground lamb kabobs and pappadums, those delicate lentil-flour wafers that are addictive (you also are served a few when you arrive, along with an excellent mint chutney and a tamarind sauce for dipping).

The pakoras were my favorite. They're chopped vegetables bound with chick-pea batter that are deep fried, and do

precisely what an appetizer should: Tease the appetite. They're delicate, savory and small enough that there's minimal guilt from the deep frying.

We ordered Karahai Tandoori Chicken Sag and Lamb Jal Fraizee for our entrees, both chef's specialties and the latter also a specialty of Bombay House. They were beautifully presented in small copper pots suspended over tea lights nestled in brass holders, called a karahai. The sag

was rich and earthy, naturally so, as sag dishes are prepared with spinach cooked down in butter until it almost melts. Our request for a medium spice level was honored perfectly, although I could've taken more heat.

But it's the lamb that I'll order again and again. Tender -- I'm talking fork, even spoon tender -- morsels of lamb are served in a complex tomato gravy seasoned with cumin, cinnamon, fenugreek (among other spices) and full of green peppers and onions. It was hearty, rich and fiery enough that I reached for naan dipped in raita to soothe my palate between bites.

I believe I've eaten at all the Indian restaurants in town, and I frequently cook Indian food at home. The Lamb Jal Fraizee is among the best dishes I've eaten. The dish is also prepared with chicken.

Bombay House

Address: 1727 N. Germantown Parkway, Cordova.

Telephone: (901) 755-4114

Hours: Lunch buffet 11 a.m. -2:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 3 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Dinner 5-10 p.m. daily.

Price: $$; lunch $

No smoking

Handicapped access: Yes

Alcoholic beverages: Wine and beer

Dress: Casual

Don't miss: The Lamb Jal Fraizee

What's hot: As at most Indian restaurants, there are many choices for vegetarians.

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Comments » 1

jgolightly#499836 writes:

Bombay House has the BEST Indian food in Memphis...and I've eaten at all of 'em!

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