Visitors from around the country, in Oxford for the presidential debate, will neither go hungry nor feel deprived by what they're fed. More likely, they'll go home raving about the town square, the hospitality and the food, and they'll be full of promises to return when they have more time.

Living just a stone's throw from one of the South's great little towns, this is what happens every time I visit. Before I know it, months have passed, and I find myself wondering why I haven't gone back. This week I remedied that with a day visit. Here's the lowdown on chowing down, culled from my day trip and from recent reviews or other dining experiences within the past year.

Don't think you can start a day in Oxford without stopping by Big Bad Breakfast (719 N. Lamar; (662) 281-1014) to clear the cobwebs and fuel up. (Though clearly folks did it for years, since the latest John Currence restaurant just opened few months back. No matter; life is better now.) Currence has knocked it so far out of the park with his breakfast- and lunch-only spot that there's no point in looking for the ball.

If it's on the menu, you're going to love it. But right now I flat-out declare that I've never eaten a breakfast to rival the "With Signs Following" breakfast sandwich.

Witness: An egg (I chose over medium), the sage-iest, most peppery breakfast sausage you can imagine, melted cheddar, lettuce and tomato, and Tabasco mayo. You ain't ever tasted anything like it.

Everyone at the table had to try it; I cut up one half to divide and still had leftovers. It was just too big. I tried, because the sausage (pork bellies are delivered and the magic bacon and sausages are made in-house) was divine. And speaking of divine:

With signs following... That sounded familiar to me, but I couldn't place the phrase. Enter Google. It comes from the Church of God With Signs Following, the Pentecostal sect (sect! not mainstream...) that speaks in tongues, picks up snakes and drinks strychnine as part of worship. Yep, the snake handlers.

It's also the name of a book by local photographer and filmmaker Joe York on the subject. In fact, look closely and you'll see that all the dishes are named for books written by Mississippi authors. Even the name of the restaurant is derived from the late Larry Brown's "Big Bad Love."

"It makes us look like we read books," Currence said.

Over at the Deli News (1619 W. Jackson; (662) 281-0830) they stick to newspapers. Sonny Clark, who was a journalism major at Ole Miss, opened the deli nine years ago and has been serving up a changing array of sandwiches almost named for newspapers since then. There's The Appeal (cheese and veggies), The Eagle (chicken salad), The U.S.A. (ham and cheese) and so on. Wonder if there will be anyone in town from Turin, Italy's La Stampa to cover the debate?

At Bottletree Bakery (923 Van Buren; (662) 236-5000) you can dash in for a little Bump & Grind or a Bowl of Soul if you need a coffee boost. But you're liable to sit a spell when you spy the pastry case. Bread, scones, cinnamon rolls, muffins and brioche are prepared daily; selections vary. You can also stop in for breakfast (lighter fare than you'll find at Big Bad Breakfast, which buys all its bread from Bottletree) or lunch. No dinner.

Bouré (209 N. Lamar; (662) 234-3314) is another John Currence restaurant, demographically (and geographically) between Big Bad Breakfast and City Grocery (more on that coming). Burgers, salads, sandwiches and appetizers are served for lunch. At dinner, you get most of the same choices and the addition of entrees ranging from shrimp and grits to ribs to filet mignon.

If you miss the hearty plate lunches at the Ajax Diner (118 Courthouse Square; (662) 232-8880), poor you. All you can do to soothe the pain is to head over in the afternoon for one of the best Bloody Marys on the planet. Truly, the home-style lunches are a treat, particularly the meatloaf, the turkey and dressing, and the fried eggplant. I've never been in at the right time to order the red bean rolls, but it's going to happen one day. Egg roll wrappers are stuffed with red beans and rice, green onions, jalapeno jack cheese and served with spicy sour cream. Get there after 5:30 p.m. and you can order 'em up with your Bloody Mary.

Have I mentioned John Currence? Hmm. Well, his Oxford empire started with City Grocery (152 Courthouse Square; (662) 232-8080) 16 years ago. Its success has earned Currence three James Beard nominations for Best Chef: South, and his remarkable elevation of simple ingredients earned the restaurant 31/2 stars when it was reviewed by The CA's arts and entertainment editor Peggy Burch in April. Shrimp and grits have remained a constant, though now the menu changes with the seasons to further Currence's commitment to local ingredients. It's elegant but homey; wines range from a $5 glass to a $290 bottle. Don't miss it.

You can't go to Oxford and not go to Taylor Grocery & Restaurant (4 County Road 338 No. A, Taylor, Miss.; (662) 236-1716) for catfish, served with hush puppies, cole slaw and raw onion. It's always crisp and hot, plus Taylor is one of the coolest tiny towns you'll ever find. There's often live music, there's an art gallery and a pottery shop, all in one little stretch.

Also recommended by locals, but not visited by me, are:

Waltz on the Square (1110 Van Buren; (662) 236-2760), an upscale eatery that's gotten good buzz. I would've gladly gone to sample from the eclectic menu (Asian, Indian, Southern, Creole) except that the hours were wrong on the list I had. So you'll know better, it's open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.

Mama Jo's (1503 N. Lamar; (662) 513-6601) is a popular home-style lunch spot for locals.

Try The Blind Pig (132 Courthouse Square; (662) 234-5119) for drinks and gourmet sandwiches.

Ravine (53 County Road 321; (662) 234-4555) is a bed and breakfast and restaurant on 70 acres just outside of town. Menus change to reflect seasonal produce; BYOB.

The Yocona River Inn (842 Hwy. 334; (662) 234-2464) is where locals show up on Sunday nights, wine in hand, to visit with other locals and feast on steak.

Finally, there's Marie's Lebanese Cuisine (505 Heritage Dr.; (662) 236-3232) which I am delighted to report reopened last year after a several-year hiatus. I've eaten there many times over the years, but only in its prior incarnation. They tell me the food is still just as good.

--Jennifer Biggs: 529-5223