Best bets: Muffaletta at Yang's Deli

By Jennifer Biggs

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

I’m not pretending it’s Central Grocery good. And if there’s a muffaletta around here worthy of being served at the Napoleon House, you need to let me know about it. But, hey, we’re in Memphis, not New Orleans, and I was craving a muffaletta. I stopped in Yang’s Deli, because Whining & Dining blogger Carole H. has mentioned a time or two that it’s a good sandwich, and I decided to put her to the test.

She passed. It’s not hugely overstuffed like a New Orleans sandwich, but it strikes a nice balance. Layers of salami, mortadella, ham and cheese are topped with olive salad, lettuce, tomato and onion, then given a generous splash of oil and vinegar. It was about $10 for dinner for two.

Pick up a sandwich to go, go to the liquor store and get a bottle of Pimm’s, and settle in on the porch for a relaxing evening. Here’s how I make my Pimm’s Cup: Equal parts Pimm’s, lemonade and 7-Up, garnished with a spear of cucumber and a squeeze of lemon or lime. There are variations, but this one is pretty close to what you’ll find at New Orleans’ Napoleon House. It’s a classic combination.

Yang’s Deli, 4985 Summer, is open from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; Sunday 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Call 682-5309.

— Jennifer Biggs: 529-5223