I first heard of chat papdi when I read about it in Sheila Lukins' "All Around the World Cookbook" in 1994. For 15 years I've thought about the dish from time to time, though I'd forgotten the name (and am not even sure Lukins called it the same thing).

Chat papdi is one of the offerings of authentic "street food" at Bombay Chatt Corner in Asian Groceries on American Way. Jennifer BiggsThe Commercial Appeal

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This weekend I asked Indian friends to tell me which restaurant serves the most authentic Indian food in town, and that was the first I heard about Asian Groceries. When I was told it was mostly street food sold at the deli inside the grocery, I knew I had to go, as that's Lukins wrote about.

Deepa Moda, who makes dosas to order, keeps a pot of soup simmering on her little stove, and makes all her sauces from scratch, knew what I wanted when I explained it to her (though it turned out I didn't remember it very precisely, so extra kudos to her).

She packed the ingredients for me and told me how to assemble it, explaining that it would get soggy if I took the prepared dish to go. Putting it together at home, it came to me that it was sort of like Indian nachos.

Moda's chat papdi starts with a layer of crunchy bits about the size of a Cheez-It (those are the papdi, though there seem to be many varieties). Lentils, mung beans, diced potatoes and onions are next, then it's condiment time: Mint chutney, a thin and fiery red sauce, and a sweet tamarind sauce are provided. Yogurt cools it all off, and sev, a very fine and crisp noodle, tops it.

It's crunchy and soft, hot and slightly sweet, bursting with complex flavor.

There are numerous recipes for the chat papdi, and I might try some of those at home eventually. For now, I'll pay my $3.49 and let Moda do the work.

--Jennifer Biggs: 529-5223

Asian Groceries is at 5054 American Way and the Bombay Chatt Corner serves from 11 a.m-7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and noon-6 p.m. on Sunday. The store is closed on Mondays. Call 368-0068.