Thursday, March 18, 2010
Pie and cake are not everyone's cup of tea, but even folks who don't have a serious sweet tooth usually won't say no to a cookie. And I don't know anyone who would turn down a Makeda's cookie. Lucky for CA staffers — we've been known to dash out on Makeda's runs — there's a new shop in Midtown.
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Friday, March 12, 2010
Through their restaurants, the Memphis Grisantis have reveled in their Italian heritage for decades. Last year, Judd Grisanti left the glamorous dining space he created at Spindini on South Main and returned to the scene of his youthful introduction to the family business, the site once known as Ronnie Grisanti & Sons. His father's former restaurant on Poplar, west of Chickasaw Gardens, now is Judd Grisanti's Trattoria.
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Wednesday, March 10, 2010
I think the battered vegetable-as-appetizer trend started with fried mushrooms. It’s the first I remember, though I’m not going to get into whether the Hollywood’s fried dill pickles should take precedence — I’m talking widespread snacking here. And onion rings were a side, not really an appetizer. The list grew until before long we were getting our 5 A Day fried in batter and dipped in ranch dressing all kinds of ways, from cauliflower to zucchini.
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Friday, March 5, 2010
So many Mexican restaurants have sprung up on Macon Road that it's giving Summer Avenue a run for the money. I recently met a friend for lunch at Caminos de Michoachan and spied her parked about 100 feet from me, waiting in front of another restaurant. We both stepped back and looked at the signs to double-check before we walked in the right place, and were immediately enveloped by the sweet aroma of baking pastry and consumed with carnivorous lust from the smell of grilling meat.
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Wednesday, March 3, 2010
No doubt the ancient Japanese are rolling over in their graves, wondering how sushi became the stuffed silly, deep-fried, over-the-top rolls on menus all over the country. But contemporary Americans just say “mmm, mmm” as we eat ’em up. There are two new ones at Ryu Sushi Bar worth adding to the lineup.
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Friday, Feb. 26, 2010
Take a few more steps inside, and you can get a shot of wheat grass at Smooth Moves, or, a bit farther in, a shot of espresso at the High Point Coffee bar. Head to the south wall, and your horizon broadens to include the kitchen at Sean's Cafe, which serves an extensive list of well-rendered traditional Middle Eastern dishes — gyros, stuffed grape leaves, lamb kebab.
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Wednesday, Feb. 24, 2010
I call the Salad Plate “the taste of spring,” because Waffle Shop usually is going on when winter turns to spring, and the red bud, pear and cherry trees bloom and the weather gets warmer. You only can taste the inimitable Waffle Shop versions of tomato aspic, chicken salad, shrimp mousse and pear with a tiny dab of cottage cheese during this time of year.
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Friday, Feb. 19, 2010
It's funny that when we review old Memphis restaurants together, we often end up eating Italian. First we went to Pete & Sam's, then Coletta's on South Parkway. This week, Dino's. While we didn't try it together, I've got to rave for a minute about one of the most heartburn-inducing dishes in town: 3-Way Tamales.
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Friday, Feb. 12, 2010
When I start raving about edamame and tofu, chances are roughly 100 percent that the chef in charge has done something extraordinary. Sure, I'll eat either, but I've raved exactly once, and that was last week at Tao Too Asian Eatery in Germantown. Lime juice, in addition to the standard sprinkling of salt, is all it takes to elevate edamame to heights previously unknown to the addictive green soybean (frequently eaten as a snack with beer in Japan).
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Wednesday, Feb. 10, 2010
OK, so it’s cold this weekend and you probably won’t be headed to the Memphis Zoo. But a warm day will arrive as unexpectedly as the last snow, and a walk and lunch — yep, lunch — at the zoo might be just what’ll set you right. Cat House Café has a brand new menu. Chef Penny McCraw, formerly of McEwen’s, The Brushmark and The Westin, is in charge of food service at the zoo and it’s a far cry from burgers.
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Friday, Feb. 5, 2010
Saturday, when the sky was grey, the air was biting and the icy streets were treacherous, we drove along a woeful section of Cleveland just north of Poplar to get to Al-Rayan. And there we found the remedy to all the unpleasantness listed above. It's called selta — or salta, depending on which menu you're reading. The robust stew, which Al-Rayan owner Hindi Nahwi makes with lamb and potatoes, is a traditional dish of Yemen, and arrives bubbling in a black clay pot.
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Tuesday, Feb. 2, 2010
It’s the big game weekend, and even if you’re not all “Who Dat” and “Geaux,” you still might want to indulge in a muffuletta. Whining & Dining bloggers say these are good ones: Benito and WLR like
Jason’s Deli (multiple locations): “Sorry to go with the chains here, but the one at Jason’s Deli is the best I’ve had here since Cafe Roux closed,” Benito says.
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Friday, Jan. 29, 2010
Market Café is a nice little place that will, I'm certain, deservedly build a loyal clientele and prosper. The food is very good, the atmosphere homey and comfortable, growing more so as the chalkboard walls fill up with diner commentary. And in general, the service is good. Unfortunately, I recently dined there on a day when chaos, or something close to it, reigned over both the kitchen and the dining room.
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Thursday, Jan. 28, 2010
In the interest of economy, I've been looking for Best Bets at fast food places. I've found a few things that you'll read about in coming weeks, but I thought everyone already knew about the Tops cheeseburger. Well, it turned out that I was wrong. Let's work together to change that. After you read this, tell a friend, and tell that friend to tell a friend and so on. There are plenty of Tops around town, so we don't have to worry about running out.
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Friday, Jan. 22, 2010
In January 2007, Interim was the temporary name given to the chic dining space that was created to house Wally Joe's restaurant near Sanderlin and Mendenhall. When Joe left, Jackson Kramer, stepped in to keep the kitchen running. When Kramer left last fall,
sous chef Josh Belenchia took his place. Two things have remained constant through the Wally Joe and Interim eras: the artful and serene interior and the superior service.
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